STORM SWEATER

________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sizes: XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL)
Bust circumference: 108 (112) 116 (120) 120 (124) 132 (140) 152 (160) cm [42½ (44) 45¾ (47¼) 47¼ (48¾) 52
(55) 59¾ (63) inches]
Length: 56 (58) 60 (61) 62 (64) 66 (68) 70 (72) cm [22 (22¾) 23½ (24) 24½ (25¼) 26 (26¾) 27½ (28¼)
inches] measured mid back excl. neck edge
Gauge: 20 sts x 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in texture pattern on 4 mm [US6] needle after
wash and blocking
Needles: Circular needles: 4 mm [US6] / 40, 60, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 24, 32 and/or 40 inches] and
3.5 mm [US4] / 40, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 32 and/or 40 inches]
Double-pointed needles: 4 mm [US6] and 3.5 mm [US4]
Materials: 650 (700-750) 750 (750) 800 (800) 850 (850) 900 (950) g Peer Gynt by Sandnes Garn
(50 g = 91 m [98 yds])
 PATTERN
The Storm Sweater is worked from the top down in a texture pattern. First, the back yoke is worked and
shaped using short rows to form the slope of the shoulders. After this, stitches are picked up and knitted for
each shoulders, which are then joined to form the front yoke. The front and back yoke are joined to form the
body, which is worked straight down in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round on double-pointed
needles or on a circular needle using the Magic Loop technique. A rib edge is worked along the neck, folded
double and knitted down. The Storm Sweater is worked in a texture pattern which has four different
segments. Begin by knitting a swatch to determine which needle size will give you the correct gauge – please
note that both the stitch gauge and the row gauge needs to be correct for the sweater to end up having the
measurements given at the top of the pattern. The swatch can be worked using the chart on page 15.

Size guide
The Storm Sweater is designed to have approx. 26 cm [10¼ inches] of positive ease in the smaller sizes
and then gradually less positive ease in the larger sizes. The sizes XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL)
are designed to fit a bust circumference of 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95) 95-100 (100-110) 110-120 (120-130)
130-140 (140-150) cm [29½-31½ (31½-33½) 33½-35½ (35½-37½) 37½-39½ (39½-43¼) 43¼-47¼ (47¼-
51¼) 51¼-55 (55-59) inches]. The measurements for the finished sweater are listed on the front page of the
pattern. Please note that these measurements are only achieved if the correct gauge is maintained
throughout. Measure yourself before starting your project, to determine which size will fit you the best. For
example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part of your upper
body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 116 cm [45¾ inches] which in
the given example would give you 26 cm [10¼ inches] of positive ease.

About charts
The charts for the texture patterns are found at the end of the instruction. The texture pattern for the sweater
consists of four different pattern segments, and garter ridges are worked between each segment. No
selvedge stitches are worked. The key for the chart symbols is found on page 10. The charts are read from
the bottom to the top, and the wrong side rows of the chart are read from left to right while right side rows
are read from right to left. The bolded squares in the charts are repeated as many times as stated.

About increases and decreases

Increases and decreases are worked so they either slant left (M1L and skp) or right (M1R and k2tog) (see
video at www.petiteknit.com).
M1L: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between the stitches from front to back, then knit
this strand through the back loop.
M1R: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between the stitches from back to front, then knit
this strand.
Skp: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.
2
Back yoke
The back yoke is worked back and forth on a 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 or 32 inches] circular needle.
Short rows are worked to shape the shoulders. Use the German Short Row technique when working short
rows, i.e. when the pattern says “turn” (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Work as follows:
Cast on 104 (104) 104 (112) 112 (112) 120 (120) 128 (128) sts on a 4 mm [US6] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needle.
Break the yarn.

Slip the first 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (40) 44 (44) 48 (48) sts from the left needle to the right needle (without knitting them).

Join new yarn and purl 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 (32) sts, until there are 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (40) 44 (44)
48 (48) sts left on the needle, turn. The next row is a RS row.

Work back and forth in texture pattern with short rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): The first stitch is the turning stitch, then work * k3, p1 *, repeat from * to * to 3 sts before
where you joined new yarn, k5, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after last WS turn, turn.
Row 3 (RS): The first stitch is the turning stitch, then work * k3, p1 *, repeat from * to * to 3 sts before
last RS turn, k5, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after last WS turn, turn.

Work Rows 1-4 once, then work Rows 3 and 4 another 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 7 (7) 7 (7) times (there are now 22 (22)
22 (26) 26 (26) 26 (26) 30 (30) sts left on the needle). The next row is a RS row.

Continue working back and forth with short rows and garter stitch as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to 2 sts after the last WS turn, turn.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) times (there are now 18 (18) 18 (22) 22 (22) 22 (22) 26
(26) sts left on the needle). The next row is a RS row.

Continue working back and forth with short rows in rib pattern as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 2 (WS): The first stitch is the turning stitch, then work * k2, p2 *, repeat from * to * to the last WS
turn, k2, p1 (meaning work to 2 sts after last turn), turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 4 (WS): The first stitch is the turning stitch, then work * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last WS
turn, p2, k1 (meaning work to 2 sts after last turn), turn.

3
Work Rows 1-4 a total of 4 (4) 4 (4) 4 (4) 5 (5) 5 (5) times (there are now 2 (2) 2 (6) 6 (6) 2 (2) 6 (6) sts left on
the needle). The next row is a RS row.

Sizes XXS, XS, S, 2XL and 3XL only:

Continue working back and forth with short rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to 2 sts after the last WS turn, turn.

There are now no sts left on the needle and all short rows have been completed.

Work back and forth across all the back yoke sts as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
Row 3 (RS): Knit across.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.

Sizes M, L, XL, 4XL and 5XL only:

Continue working back and forth with short rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to 2 sts after the last WS turn, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Knit to 2 sts after the last WS turn, turn.
Row 5 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn, turn.
Row 6 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after last WS turn, turn.

There are now no sts left on the needle and all short rows have been completed.

All sizes:
Continue working back and forth across the back yoke in texture pattern, while working the chart on page
11 for sizes XXS, XS, M, L, page 12 for sizes S, XL, 2XL and page 13 for sizes 3XL, 4XL, 5XL.

As shown in the chart, 2 (2) 4 (2) 2 (4) 4 (8) 8 (8) increases for the armhole are worked on both sides. There
will be a total of 108 (108) 112 (116) 116 (120) 128 (136) 144 (144) sts on the needle after the chart has been
worked. The last row is a WS row, so the next row is a RS row.

Break the yarn and let the sts rest, while the shoulders and front yoke are being worked.

Left shoulder
RS facing, pick up and knit the 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (40) 44 (44) 48 (48) sts furthest to the left along the back yoke
cast-on edge. Pick up sts from the RS with a 4 mm [US6] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle. The first row is
a WS row. If you want to follow the chart, this can be found on page 14 – below is the line-by-line instructions.

4
Work back and forth as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Knit across.
Row 2 (RS): Knit across.
Row 3 (WS): Knit across.
Row 4 (RS): Knit across.
Row 5 (WS): Purl across.

The next row is a RS row.

Work back and forth in texture pattern as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K1, p1, * k3, p1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts on the needle, k2.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3 (RS): * K3, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1-4 a total of 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) times, then work Rows 1 and 2 once more (i.e. until a total
of 14 (14) 14 (14) 14 (14) 18 (18) 18 (18) rows have been worked).

Work back and forth in garter stitch as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
Row 3 (RS): Knit across.
Row 4 (WS): Knit across.

The next row is a RS row.

Work back and forth in rib pattern (note: only for sizes 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL)). Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): K1, * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts on the needle, p2, k1.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (0) 2 (2) 2 (2) times (i.e. for a total of 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (0) 4 (4) 4 (4) rows).

Now work back and forth in rib pattern, while at the same time working increases for the neckline (a total of
8 increases for all sizes) as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): K1, * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last 4 sts on the needle, k3, k1.
Row 3 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): K1, * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last 5 sts on the needle, 4 vr, k1.
Row 5 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to end of row.

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Row 6 (WS): K1, * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last 6 sts on the needle, p2, k1, p2, k1.
Row 7 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to end of row.
Row 8 (WS): K1, * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts on the needle, p2, k1.

Work Rows 1-8 a total of 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) times. There are now a total of 44 (44) 44 (48) 48 (48) 52
(52) 56 (56) sts on the needle. The next row is a RS row.

Break the yarn and let the sts rest, while the right shoulder is being worked.

Right shoulder
RS facing, pick up and knit 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (40) 44 (44) 48 (48) sts furthest to the right along the back yoke
cast-on edge. Pick up sts from the RS with a 4 mm [US6] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle. The first row is
a WS row. If you want to follow the chart, this can be found on page 14 – below is the line-by-line instructions.

Work back and forth as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Knit across.
Row 2 (RS): Knit across.
Row 3 (WS): Knit across.
Row 4 (RS): Knit across.
Row 5 (WS): Purl across.

The next row is a RS row.

Work back and forth in texture pattern as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K2, * p1, k3 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts on the needle, p1, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Row 3 (RS): * P1, k3 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1-4 a total of 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) times, then work Rows 1 and 2 once more (i.e. until a total
of 14 (14) 14 (14) 14 (14) 18 (18) 18 (18) rows have been worked).

Work back and forth in garter stitch as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
Row 3 (RS): Knit across.
Row 4 (WS): Knit across.

The next row is a RS row.

6
Work back and forth in rib pattern (note: only for sizes 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL)). Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): K1, * p2, k2 *, repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts on the needle, p2, k1.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (0) 2 (2) 2 (2) times (i.e. for a total of 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (0) 4 (4) 4 (4) rows).

Now work back and forth in rib pattern, while at the same time working increases for the neckline (a total of
8 increases for all sizes) as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): K1, k3, * k2, p2 *, repeat from * to * to the last stitch on the needle, k1.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, knit to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): K1, p4, * k2, p2 *, repeat from * to * to the last stitch on the needle, k1.
Row 5 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, knit to end of row.
Row 6 (WS): K1, p2, k1, p2, * k2, p2 *, repeat from * to * to the last stitch on the needle, k1.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, knit to end of row.
Row 8 (WS): K1, p2, * k2, p2 *, repeat from * to * to the last stitch on the needle, k1.

Work Rows 1-8 a total of 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) times. There are now a total of 44 (44) 44 (48) 48 (48) 52
(52) 56 (56) sts on the needle. The next row is a RS row.

Do not break the yarn as the next step follows from here.

Front yoke
Join the right and left shoulder to form the front yoke, while casting on new stitches between the two
shoulders to form the front of the neck.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across right shoulder, cast on 16 (16) 16 (16) 16 (16) 16 (16) 16 sts in extension of the
right shoulder using the backward loop method, knit across left shoulder. There are a total
of 104 (104) 104 (112) 112 (112) 120 (120) 128 (128) sts on the needle.
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
Row 3 (RS): Knit across.
Row 4 (WS): Knit across.
Row 5 (RS): Knit across.
Row 6 (WS): Purl across.

The rest of the front yoke is worked back and forth (with increases for the armhole at the end) in pattern
according to the chart on page 11 for sizes XXS, XS, M, L, page 12 for sizes S, XL, 2XL and page 13 for
sizes 3XL, 4XL, 5XL. There will be a total of 108 (108) 112 (116) 116 (120) 128 (136) 144 (144) sts on the
needle after the chart has been worked.

7
Do not break the yarn as the next step follows from here.

Body
Join the front and back yoke to form the body on a 4 mm [US6] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular
needle. The body is joined on a knit row, and this row is the first row of the body chart on page 15.

Work as follows:
Work according to chart across front yoke sts, cast on 0 (4) 4 (4) 4 (4) 4 (4) 8 (16) sts for the underarm using
the backward loop method, work according to chart across back yoke sts, cast on 0 (4) 4 (4) 4 (4) 4 (4) 8
(16) sts for the underarm using the backward loop method. There are a total of 216 (224) 232 (240) 240 (248)
264 (280) 304 (320) sts on the needle for the body.
Place a marker in the middle of the right underarm sts for the beginning of the round.

Work the rest of the body in pattern according to chart on page 15, until the sweater measures 50 (52) 54
(55) 56 (58) 60 (62) 64 (66) cm [19¾ (20½) 21¼ (21¾) 22 (22¾) 23½ (24½) 25¼ (26) inches] mid back excl.
neck edge or the desired length. Adjust the length so you end up with a completed pattern segment and
two garter ridges at the end.

Change to a 3.5 mm [US4] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needle and work 6 cm [2¼ inches] in
the round in 1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).

Work double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind-off technique as follows (see video at
www.petiteknit.com):
Round 1: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in back, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Bind off using the Italian bind-off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Sleeves
Pick up and knit 88 (88) 88 (88) 88 (88) 96 (96) 96 (96) sts from the RS along the armhole opening using a 4
mm [US6] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle. Start and end at the bottom of the underarm. This is the
equivalent for picking up and knitting 2 sts for every 3 rows all the way around the armhole, and 1 stitch in
each of the backward loop stitches at the underarm. The beginning of the round is in the middle of the
underarm.

Work in the round in texture pattern according to chart on page 16, while at the same time working
decreases as shown in the chart a total of 10 times. There will be a total of 68 (68) 68 (68) 68 (68) 76 (76) 76
(76) sts on the needle after the last decrease. Continue following the chart without decreases until the
sleeve measures 36 (37) 37 (38) 39 (39) 38 (37) 37 (37) cm [14¼ (14½) 14½ (15) 15¼ (15¼) 15 (14½) 14½
(14½) inches] or to the desired length. Adjust the length so you end up with a completed pattern segment
and two garter ridges at the end.

8
Change to double-pointed needles as it becomes necessary.

Reduce the number of sts to 66 (66) 66 (66) 66 (66) 74 (74) 74 (74) sts.
Change to 3.5 mm [US4] double-pointed needles and work 8 cm [3¼ inches] in the round in 1 x 1 rib (k1,
p1)
Work 2 rounds in double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind-off technique the same way as on
the body.
Work the second sleeve the same way as the first.

Neck edge
The neck edge is worked in the round in rib on a 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle.
RS facing, pick up and knit 110 (112) 112 (114) 116 (116) 120 (122) 122 (122) sts along the neck opening
with a 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle. Start and end at the back of the neck. This is
approx. equivalent to picking up and knitting 1 stitch in every stitch along the back of the neck, along the
front and along the slanting sides, while 2 sts are picked up for every 3 rows along the straight sides.

Work as follows:
Rounds 1-9: * K1, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Rounds 10-12: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Rounds 13-19: * K1, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Now the rib edge is folded double and knitted together by knitting every other stitch of the next round
together with a stitch from the round where stitches were picked up and knitted, while at the same time
binding them off. Work as follows (see video at www.petiteknit.com):
* Pick up a stitch from the round where stitches were picked up and knitted and place it on the left needle.
Knit the picked up stitch together with the first stitch on the left needle. Pass the second stitch on the right
needle over the stitch that was just knitted (i.e. bind off the stitch). Knit 1 stitch. Pass the second stitch on
the right needle over the stitch that was just knitted (i.e. bind off the stitch). *

Repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

Take care that the neck edge doesn’t become twisted – make sure to check along the way that each stitch
is knitted together with the stitch directly below it.

Weave in all ends.

9
Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog decrease, knit two stitches together
M1L increase, make one left; insert the left needle under the strand between the stitches from front to
back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted)
M1R increase, make one right; insert the left needle under the strand between the stitches from back
to front, then knit this strand
p purl
RS right side of your work
skp slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work

knit on RS, purl on WS

purl on RS, knit on WS

no stitch

M1R

M1L

skp

k2tog

10
Chart for increases at the armhole
Sizes XXS, XS, M, L

Work 2 times
(i.e. for a total of
16 rows)

Work a total of 12 (12) – (13) Start

13 (–) – (–) – (–) times

11
Chart for increases at the armhole
Sizes S, XL, 2XL

Work 2 times
(i.e. for a total of
16 rows)

Work a total of – (–) 12 (–) – (13)

Start
14 (–) – (–) times

12
Chart for increases at the armhole
Sizes 3XL, 4XL, 5XL

Work 2 times
(i.e. for a total of
16 rows)

Work a total of – (–) – (–) – (–) Start

– (14) 15 (15) times

13
 Left shoulder Right shoulder
Work 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (0)
1 (1) 1 (1) times

14
Chart for right and left shoulder

Work 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3)

4 (4) 4 (4) times
All sizes Work 7 (7) 7 (8) 8 (8) Work 7 (7) 7 (8) 8 (8)
Start 9 (9) 10 (10) times Start 9 (9) 10 (10) times
Chart for body
All sizes

Work 2 times (i.e. for a total of 16 rounds)

Work 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 10 (10) 10 (10) times

(i.e. for a total of 16 (16) 16 (16) 16 (16)
20 (20) 20 (20) rounds)

Work 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) times

(i.e. for a total of 12 (12) 12 (12) 12 (12)
16 (16) 16 (16) rounds)

Work a total of 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (30)

32 (34) 37 (39) times

15
Chart for sleeves
All sizes
Work 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 0 (0) 0 (0) times
(i.e. for a total of 16 (16) 16 (16)
16 (16) 0 (0) 0 (0) rounds)

Work 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) times

(i.e. for a total of 12 (12) 12 (12)
12 (12) 16 (16) 16 (16) rounds)

Work 2 times (i.e. for a total of 16 rounds)

Work 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 9 (9) 9 (9) times

(i.e. for a total of 14 (14) 14 (14)
14 (14) 18 (18) 18 (18) rounds)

Work 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) times

(i.e. for a total of 12 (12) 12 (12)
12 (12) 16 (16) 16 (16) rounds)

Work a total of 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 9 (9) 9 (9) times

16
 Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2023
www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
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