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ANKER’S SUMMER SHIRT

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Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL
Bust circumference: 82 (86) 90 (96) 102 cm
Length: 52 (54) 56 (58) 60 cm
Gauge: 20,5 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4 inches
Suggested needles: 4 mm (U.S. size 6) circular needles / 40 & 80 cm (16 & 32 inches); 4 mm double
pointed needles (if not using the magic loop technique for the sleeves)
Materials: 250 (300) 300 (350) 400 g of DK weight yarn, thin elastic thread for the neck
Suggested yarn: Line from Sandnes Garn (50 g = 110 m/120 yards)
PATTERN
Anker's Summer Shirt is worked top-down. The yoke consists of segments of rib stitch with
increases followed by classic raglan increases. The pattern is written with the fact that the
shirt will “grow” with wear (if you knit it in the suggested yarn or a similar blend in mind).
When choosing a size, measure your bust circumference (at its widest point) and knit the
size closest to your measurements, preferably with 0-5 cm / 0-2 inches of negative ease.
When you have worn Anker’s Summer Shirt for a few hours, it will have expanded and it will
have gotten to the right (and a bit loser) fit. For instance, a size XS has a chest
circumference of 82 cm upon completion, but after it has been used for a bit the
circumference will be 88 cm (i.e. it grows about 6 cm). After washing, the size will be close
to the original size. The length will not change significantly. It is recommended to try on the
shirt as progress to get the perfect length for your body - some people have a longer torso
and some people have a shorter torso. As with all other knitwear, the collar will also grow. A
trick for maintaining the perfect collar size is to sew a thin elastic thread (ideally in the same
tone of the yarn chosen for the shirt) along the top of the inside of the neck band.

Yoke
Cast on 96 (96) 98 (100) 102 sts on the 4mm / 40 cm circular needles and join to knit in the
round, making sure that your cast-on edge is not twisted. * Work 8 rounds of 1x1 rib st (k1,
p1). K across 1 round while at the same time increasing by working 30 yo's evenly spaced.
K across the next round, knitting the yo's through the back loop to prevent holes. * Repeat
from * to * a total of 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) times (= 186 (186) 188 (220) 222 sts).
Work another 8 rounds of 1x1 rib st (k 1, p1). K across 1 round, without making any
increases.

The rest of the yoke is shaped by raglan increases. Please note that you will knit one st
(marker st) between all raglan increases (4 marker sts in total). Divide for raglan increases as
follows:

1 marker st, 34 (34) 34 (42) 40 sts (right sleeve), 1 marker st, 57 (57) 58 (66) 69 sts (front), 1
marker st, 34 (34) 34 (42) 40 sts (left sleeve), 1 marker st, 57 (57) 58 (66) 69 sts (back).

2
Continue in stockinette st, working raglan increases on every second round as follows: K
the marker st, insert the left needle into the thread from the front and k it tbl (through the
back loop) (M1L), k to the marker st, insert the left needle into the thread from the back and
k it (M1R). Repeat until the end of the round. K across the next round.

Work raglan increases on every second round a total of 11 (13) 14 (13) 15 times (= 274 (290)
300 (324) 342 sts).

Body
Now, you will separate the sleeves from the body. Let the 56 (60) 62 (68) 70 sleeve sts on
each side rest while working on the body (you can leave them on a spare cable or waste
yarn). Include the marker sts in the sts for the body. Cast on 4 sts under each sleeve (= 170
(178) 184 (196) 210 sts). The round now starts under the right sleeve.
Continue working in the round in stockinette st until the sweater mid front measures 50 (52)
54 (56) 58 cm or the desired length. NOTE that the length is merely a guideline - it is a good
idea to try the sweater on as you go to get the perfect length for you. Work 7 rounds of 1x1
rib st (k 1, p 1). Cast off in ribbing pattern.

Sleeves
Sleeves are worked in the round on 4 mm double pointed needles or using the magic loop
technique.
Pick up 4 sts in the sts that were cast on under the sleeve when knitting the body (= 60 (64)
66 (72) 74 sts) and start the round at the center of these.

K until the inside length of the sleeve measures 6 (6) 7 (8) 9 cm or desired length, while at
the same time decreasing by 2 sts on every 5th round as follows: k2tog after the first st of
the round and k2togtbl (k2tog through the back loop) before the last st of the round a total
of 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 times (= 54 (58) 60 (66) 66 sts).

Work 7 rounds of 1x1 rib st (k 1, p 1). Cast off in ribbing pattern.

Finishing

3
Weave in all ends.
Sew a thin elastic thread along the inside of the rib of the top of the collar, for example by
sewing in every k st. Try on the shirt and adjust the length of the elastic. Secure it by tying a
double knot.

Abbreviations
cm: centimeter
in: inches
st/sts: stitch/stitches
k: knit
M1R: "make one" increase that leans to the right, by picking up the thread between two
stitches from behind and knitting the new stitch normally
M1L: "make one" increase that leans to the left, by picking up the thread between two
stitches from in front and knitting the new stitch twisted through the back loop
k2tog: knit 2 sts together
k2togtbl: knit two sts together through the back loop
yo: yarn over
1x1 Rib st: k1, p1 and in all rounds knit the stitches as they present themselves
Stockinette st in the round: k across all rounds

Mette Wendelboe Okkels © COPYRIGHT 2017


www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
This pattern is for private use only. This pattern may not be copied, sold or otherwise distributed. Products
made systematically from this pattern may not be sold.
You are very welcome to share your version of Anker’s Summer Shirt on Instagram using the hashtags
#ankerssummershirt #ankerssommerbluse #petiteknit
Enjoy!

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