AGNETE CARDIGAN

________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Bust circumference: 100 (105) 110 (113) 121 (130) 138 (146) 155 cm [39¼ (41¼) 43¼ (44½) 47¾ (51¼) 54¼ (57½)
61 inches]
Length: 53 (53) 54 (55) 56 (57) 57 (59) 60 cm [20¾ (20¾) 21¼ (21¾) 22 (22½) 22½ (23¼) 23½ inches]
measured from the top of the shoulder down
Gauge: 19 sts x 56 rows in brioche stitch on a 3 mm [US2½] needle = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] (note
that 56 rows in brioche stitch counts as 28 knit stitches)
Needles: Circular needles: 3 mm [US2½] / 40, 60, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 24, 32 and or 40 inches] and
2.5 mm [US1½] / 60 cm [24 inches]
Double-pointed needles: 3 mm [US2½]
Materials: 250 (250-300) 300 (300) 300 (300-350) 350 (350) 400 g Tvinni by Isager Yarn (100 g = 510 m
[558 yds]) or 300-350 (350) 350-400 (400) 400 (450) 450 (500) 500-550 g Tynn Peer Gynt by
Sandnes Garn (50 g = 205 m [224 yds]) held together with 150-175 (175) 175-200 (200) 200
(225) 225 (250) 250-275 g Silk Mohair by Sysleriget (50 g = 420 m [459 yds]) or Silk Mohair by
Isager Yarn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) or Tynn Silk Mohair by Sandnes Garn (25 g = 212 m [232
yds]), 4 buttons (Ø = 22-23 mm)
 PATTERN
The Agnete Cardigan is worked from the top down in brioche stitch. First a section for the back of the neck
is worked in double knitting, which will connect to the front edges, and form the integrated button bands.
Next, stitches are picked up and knitted along the edge of this section, and the back yoke is worked from
these. After this, the right and left front yoke are worked flat, separately. The three parts of the yoke are
joined to form the body, which is worked flat, back and forth in brioche stitch while the front edges or button
bands are continued to be worked simultaneously in double knitting. Buttonholes are worked along the
double knitting front bands. Stitches are then picked up and knitted along the armholes and the sleeves are
worked down from these in the round.
Begin by knitting a swatch before you start your project, to determine which needle size you need to achieve
the correct gauge. Please be aware that the row gauge (i.e. how many rows there are height-wise in 10 cm
[4 inches] in a column) can vary depending on the yarn you’re knitting with. The most important thing is to
have the correct stitch gauge (i.e. how many stitches there are width-wise in 10 cm [4 inches]).
You can find videos of the brioche stitch and double knitting techniques at www.petiteknit.com.

Size guide
The Agnete Cardigan is designed to have approx. 10-15 cm [4-6 inches] of positive ease, meaning it is
designed to be approx. 10-15 cm [4-6 inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The
sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95
(95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½)
39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches]. The measurements for the finished cardigan can be
found on the front page of the pattern. Measure yourself before beginning your project, to determine which
size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or around the
widest part of your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 105
cm [41¼ inches] which in the given example would give you 15 cm [5¾ inches] of positive ease.

Brioche knitting abbreviations

Sl1yo: Bring the working yarn to the front of the work, slip the next stitch purl-wise, then bring the yarn up
and over the needle (and over the slipped stitch) to form the yarn over.
Brk: Brioche knit, knit the stitch that was slipped on the previous row together with its yarn over.
Brp: Brioche purl, purl the stitch that was slipped on the previous row together with its yarn over.

Increases in brioche stitch

You can find a video of the technique described below at www.petiteknit.com.
Increases in brioche stitch are worked from the RS into a brioche knit stitch (meaning a slipped knit stitch
with its yarn over). Brioche increases are always double increases, meaning 2 new sts are created, to
maintain the pattern. Increases are worked as follows (see video on www.petiteknit.com):
Inc: Brk1 leaving the stitch on the left needle, yarn over around right needle, then brk1 in the same stitch
again, then let the stitch fall off the left needle. On the following row, the yarn over is worked in
pattern as a regular stitch.

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Decreases in brioche stitch
You can find a video of the techniques described below at www.petiteknit.com.
Decreases in brioche stitch are worked to slant either left (L dec) or right (R dec). Decreases are always
double decreases, meaning 2 stitches are decreased at the same time, to maintain the pattern. Decreases
are worked from the RS as follows:
R dec: The first stitch on left needle is a brioche knit stitch. Knit the brioche knit stitch and the next stitch
together, slip the newly formed stitch back to the left needle and pass the next brioche knit stitch
over this new stitch (as if binding off a stitch, but from left to right), then slip the stitch back on the
right needle.
L dec: The first stitch on left needle is a brioche knit stitch. Slip the brioche knit stitch knit-wise to the right
needle, knit the next 2 stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over the newly formed stitch
(as if binding off a stitch).

Neck edge
The yoke is constructed so that the part of the neck band that will be at the top back of the neck is worked
first. After this, stitches are picked up and knitted along one side of this section, and the back yoke is worked
from these stitches. The neck band (and later the front bands) are worked in double knitting, while the rest
of the cardigan is worked in brioche stitch. Stitches are cast on using Judy’s Magic Cast On, so the work
can continue from the “live” cast on sts later on. Work as follows:
Using the two tips of a 3 mm [US2½] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle cast on a total of 28 sts using
Judy’s Magic Cast-On, so that there are 14 sts on each needle tip. Slip the 14 sts from one tip onto a stitch
holder or length of scrap yarn to leave them on hold, so that there are now only 14 sts left on the circular
needle to work with.

Prepare to work double knitting by distributing the 14 sts so there are 7 sts on both needle tips of the circular
needle by pulling the wire of the circular needle out from the middle of the 14 sts (the same as when using
the Magic Loop technique). Place the two tips of the circular needle on top of each other in parallel and
work from both tips at the same time using a 3 mm [US2½] needle (either a double-pointed needle or a
circular needle) for the set-up row as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip a stitch from the back needle purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 from the front
needle *, work from * to * a total of 7 times. There are now a total of 14 sts on the needle.

The 14 sts are now joined on one needle and double knitting has been established. Work as follows with a
3 mm [US2½] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle:
Row 1 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 7 times.
Row 2 (WS): Work as Row 1.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 46 times (the work now measures approx. 16 cm x 3 cm [6¼ x 1¼ inches]).

Work 1 more row from the RS (i.e. work a Row 1), so that the two ends of yarn are now on the same side.

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Let the 14 sts rest on a stitch holder or length of scrap yarn, but do not break the yarn as the next step
follows from here. Now stitches for both ends of the front bands are left on hold while the back is worked
from the side of the band you just knitted.

Back yoke
Using the yarn that you worked the neck edge with, pick up and knit 31 sts along the long side of the neck
band where the working yarn end is (the equivalent to picking up and knitting from the RS of the neck band),
and pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows (see video at www.petiteknit.com). The back of the yoke is
worked from these 31 sts (in brioche stitch), and the first row is a WS row. Work as follows with a 3 mm
[US2.5] / (60 cm [24 inches]) circular needle:
Row 1 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * k1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selvedge stitch).
Row 2 (RS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * sl1yo, brk1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selvedge
stitch).
Row 3 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * brk1, sl1yo, * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, brk1, k1 (selvedge
stitch).

The brioche stitch pattern has now been established. Continue in brioche stitch while working increases on
every 4th row as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * sl1yo, brk1 *, work from * to * a total of 3 times, sl1yo, inc, work brioche
stitch as established to the last 9 sts, inc, * sl1yo, brk1 *, work from * to * a total of 3 times,
sl1yo, k1 (selvedge stitch). (4 sts have been increased)
Row 2 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selvedge stitch).
Row 3 (RS): K1 (selvedge stitch), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selvedge stitch).
Row 4 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selvedge stitch).

Work Rows 1-4 a total of 16 (17) 18 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29 times (i.e. until 16 (17) 18 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29
increase rows have been worked). There are now a total of 95 (99) 103 (107) 115 (123) 131 (139) 147 sts on
the needles.

Continue back and forth in brioche stitch without increases as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K1 (selvedge stitch), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selvedge stitch).
Row 2 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selvedge stitch).

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 27 (27) 27 (27) 27 (27) 26 (24) 23 times. The back yoke incl. the double knitted
neck edge now measures approx. 24 (24.5) 25.5 (26) 27.5 (29) 30 (31) 32 cm [9½ (9¾) 10 (10¼) 10¾ (11½)
11¾ (12¼) 12½ inches]. Please note that if your row gauge (i.e. your gauge height-wise) is not completely
accurate, this measurement might deviate by a couple of cm [an inch or so] – this is not important.

The back yoke has now been completed. Break the yarn and let the sts rest.

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Right front yoke
The right front yoke is worked back and forth on a 3 mm [US2½] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle. The
front yoke and right front band are worked simultaneously. The front band continues to be worked in double
knitting, while the front yoke itself is worked in brioche stitch.
Begin by slipping the 14 resting neck band sts onto a 3 mm [US2½] circular needle, placing the 7 RS sts on
one tip of the circular needle and the 7 WS sts on the other tip of the circular needle, as these were the sts
that were left on hold from the beginning of the cast-on and have not been prepared to work double knitting
yet. The needle tips should both point towards the shoulder/back (i.e. away from the neck) (see video at
www.petiteknit.com).

Join new working yarn and RS facing pick up and knit 32 (34) 36 (38) 42 (46) 50 (54) 58 sts with a new 3 mm
[US2½] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle in the first 32 (34) 36 (38) 42 (46) 50 (54) 58 “garter knot selvedge
sts” along the slanting part of the back yoke (in the direction from the armhole side and towards the back
of the neck, from the bottom of the slanting side, where increases on the back end, to the top, where the
neck band is on the two needle tips). Hold the circular needle with the picked up sts from the back yoke in
your right hand and the needle with the neck edge sts in your left hand (with the sts distributed between the
two tips of the needle).

Knit the sts from the neck band onto the needle in your right hand by working the sts from both needle tips
at the same time as follows:
* Slip 1 stitch from the back needle purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 from the front needle *, work
from * to * a total of 7 times.

There are now a total of 46 (48) 50 (52) 56 (60) 64 (68) 72 sts on the needle. Place a marker after the 14 neck
edge sts to mark the transition between the double knitting and the brioche stitch – to use as a guide when
continuing the work.

Begin with a WS row where you set up the brioche stitch on the front yoke. Work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 7 times, slip
marker, * k1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selvedge stitch).
Row 2 (RS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * sl1yo, brk1 *, repeat from * to * to 1 stitch before marker, sl1yo, slip
marker, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of
row.

Double knitting and brioche stitch have now been established.

Now work back and forth as established with increases along the front edge as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * to marker, slip marker,
* brk1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, brk1, k1 (selvedge stitch).
Row 2 (RS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * sl1yo, brk1 *, repeat from * to * to 1 stitch before marker, sl1yo, slip
marker, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of
row.
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Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 77 (77) 77 (84) 84 (84) 84 (91) 91 times, while at the same time working
increases in brioche stitch along the front edge every 11th (11th) 11th (12th) 12th (12th) 12th (13th) 13th RS
row (i.e. every 22th (22th) 22th (24th) 24th (24th) 24th (26th) 26th row) as follows:
Increase row: K1 (selvedge stitch), * sl1yo, brk1 *, repeat from * to * to 5 sts before marker, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo,
brk1, sl1yo, slip marker, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from *
to * to end of row. (2 sts have been increased)

When all of the above rows have been worked, a total of 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 rows with increases have
been worked (the last worked RS row is a row with increases), and there are 60 (62) 64 (66) 70 (74) 78 (82)
86 sts on the needle. The front yoke measures approx. 28 (28) 28 (30) 30 (30) 30 (33) 33 cm [11 (11) 11 (11¾)
11¾ (11¾) 11¾ (13) 13 inches] measured from where sts were picked up and knitted along the shoulder (if
your row gauge is not completely accurate, this measurement might deviate by a couple of cm [an inch or
so] – this is not important).

Work 1 row from the WS in pattern as established, so the next row is a RS row.
Break the yarn and let the sts rest while the left front yoke is being worked.

Left front yoke

The left front yoke is worked the same way as the right front yoke, only mirror-reversed. Work as follows:
Slip the 14 resting neck edge sts onto a 3 mm [US2½] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle. Place a marker.
In extension of these sts join new working yarn and pick up and knit 32 (34) 36 (38) 42 (46) 50 (54) 58 sts
from the RS under each “garter knot selvedge sts” (from the neck side, along the slanting back edge, until
the bottom of the slant, where increases in the back end). There are now a total of 46 (48) 50 (52) 56 (60) 64
(68) 72 sts on the needle.

Begin with a WS row and work as follows:

Row 1 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * k1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to 1 stitch before marker, k1, slip marker,
* slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker, slip
marker, * sl1yo, brk1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selvedge stitch).

Double knitting and brioche stitch have now been established.

Now work back and forth as established with increases along the front edge as follows:
Row 1 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * brk1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to 1 stitch before marker, brk1, slip
marker, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of
row.
Row 2 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker, slip
marker, * sl1yo, brk1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selvedge stitch).

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Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 77 (77) 77 (84) 84 (84) 84 (91) 91 times, while at the same time working
increases in brioche stitch along the front edge every 11th (11th) 11th (12th) 12th (12th) 12th (13th) 13th RS
row (i.e. every 22th (22th) 22th (24th) 24th (24th) 24th (26th) 26th row) as follows:
Increase row: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker, slip
marker, sl1yo, brk1, sl1yo, inc, work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1
(selvedge stitch).

When all of the above rows have been worked, a total of 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 (7) 7 rows with increases have
been worked (the last worked RS row is a row with increases), and there are 60 (62) 64 (66) 70 (74) 78 (82)
86 sts on the needle. The front yoke measures approx. 28 (28) 28 (30) 30 (30) 30 (33) 33 cm [11 (11) 11 (11¾)
11¾ (11¾) 11¾ (13) 13 inches] measured from where sts were picked up and knitted along the shoulder.

Work 1 row from the WS in pattern as established, so the next row is a RS row.
Do not break the yarn as the next step follows from here.

Body
Join the left front yoke, the back yoke and the right front yoke to form the body. The body is worked back
and forth on a 3 mm [US2½] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needle. Join the three sections from
the RS by first working across the left front, then the back and finally across the right front as follows:
Row 1 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker (left front
band), slip marker, work brioche stitch as established across left front, cast on 1 stitch in
extension of the left front using the backward loop method, work brioche stitch as established
across back, cast on 1 stitch in extension of the back using the backward loop method, work
brioche stitch as established to marker, slip marker, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held
in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row (right front band). There are now a total of 217
(225) 233 (241) 257 (273) 289 (305) 321 sts on the needle.
Row 2 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker (right front
band), slip marker, work brioche stitch as established to marker, slip marker, * slip 1 stitch
purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row (left front band).

All of the body sts have now been joined on one circular needle and the cardigan is worked back and forth
in brioche stitch and double knitting, while at the same time four buttonholes are worked along the double
knitted right front band/placket. The buttonholes are formed by dividing the double knitted edge in two and
working these two separately before joining them together again. The first buttonhole on the right front
placket is worked as follows:
Row 1 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker (left front
band), slip marker, work brioche stitch as established to marker, slip marker, * slip 1 stitch
purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.

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Now the buttonhole is worked on one half of the placket by working across the first 8 sts as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 4 times, turn
Row 2 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 4 times, turn

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 4 times, then work one last WS row (meaning a total of 9 rows have been
worked), so that the tail of yarn sits inside the future buttonhole and not at the front edge of the cardigan.
Let the sts rest and break the yarn.

Join new yarn and work across the rest of the sts on the needle. Begin with a WS row and work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker (half right
front band), slip marker, work brioche stitch as established to marker, slip marker, * slip 1
stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row (left front
band).
Row 2 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker (left front
band), slip marker, work brioche stitch as established to marker, slip marker, * slip 1 stitch
purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * 6 times (half right front band).

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 4 times, then work one last WS row (meaning a total of 9 rows have been
worked). The next row is a RS row. Do not break the yarn.

Both sides of the buttonhole have now been worked. Work across all sts on the next row (RS).

About adjusting the length – please read before continuing to knit:

The distance between the buttonholes can be adjusted for a longer or shorter cardigan than the length given
on the front page of the pattern if desired. For example, if you would like to adjust the finished length by 3
cm [1½ inch] more or less, you need 1 cm [½ inch] more or less between each buttonhole. For all sizes the
cardigan is designed to measure 26 cm [10¼ inches] from where the body is joined (i.e. from the top of the
top buttonhole) to the bind off edge at the hem. You can put on the cardigan and measure 26 cm [10¼
inches] down from the top of the top buttonhole and evaluate if you feel this length is right for you. If you
would like to modify the length, work the distance between the buttonholes 1 cm [½ inch] more or less as
described.

Work back and forth in brioche stitch and double knitting as established until the work measures 8 cm [2¼
inches] measured from the top edge of the last buttonhole. Write down how many rows have been worked,
so you can work the exact same number between the next two buttonholes. Now work another buttonhole
the same way as the first. Repeat until a total of 3 buttonholes have been worked.

Continue in brioche stitch and double knitting after the 3rd buttonhole has been worked until the work
measures 4 cm [1½ inch] from the top of the last buttonhole (if you have adjusted the distance between the

8
buttonholes, this measurement should be adjusted the same way). Before working the rib edge at the hem,
the number of sts on the needle needs to be adjusted and the front placket sts needs to be set aside. All of
this is done on the next RS row as follows:
Row 1 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to marker, remove
marker and slip the 14 sts just worked to a stitch holder or safety pin, p1, knit 0 (0) 2 (0) 2 (0)
0 (2) 0 in brioche stitch as sts appear, inc, * sl1yo, brk1, sl1yo, brk1, sl1yo, inc *, work from *
to * a total of 31 (32) 33 (35) 37 (40) 43 (45) 48 times to 1 (3) 3 (1) 3 (3) 1 (3) 3 sts before marker,
work brioche stitch as established to 1 stitch before marker, p1, remove marker and slip the
last 14 sts to a stitch holder or safety pin. There are now a total of 253 (263) 273 (285) 305
(327) 349 (369) 389 sts on the needle.
Row 2 (WS): K1 (selvedge stitch), * p1, k1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, p1, k1 (selvedge stitch).

Now work back and forth in rib (still on a 3 mm [US2½] needle) as follows:
Row 1 (RS): * p1, k1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 2 (WS): * k1, p1 *, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Work Row 1 and 2 until the rib measures 6 cm [2¼ inches] and end with a Row 1 (RS), so that the working
yarn sits at the right front placket. So not break the yarn as the next step follows from here.

Let the sts rest on the circular needle. Now sts need to be picked up and knitted along the rib edge that’s
just been knitted, and then the double knitted placket needs to be finished, first on the right side.

Using the yarn that’s still attached to the work, pick up and knit sts from the RS with a 2.5 mm [US1½] / 60
cm [24 inches] circular needle along the end of the rib edge. Start at the bottom and work towards the
resting placket sts, and pick up and knit 1 stitch in each stitch.
Slip the resting front placket sts onto the opposite end of the same circular needle, so that you’re now
holding the button placket sts in your left hand and the sts you just picked up in your right hand.

The placket is worked back and forth in double knitting while being knitted together with the rib edge at the
same time. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit the first 2 sts of the placket together, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front,
k1 *, work from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 6 times,
slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Move the first of the picked up and knitted stitches from the right to the left needle, k2tog, *
slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * to end of row.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the last buttonhole needs to be worked (the distance between the last 2
buttonholes needs to be the same as between the other buttonholes).

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Work the buttonhole by dividing the work into two the same way as before. Work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 4 times.
Row 2 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 4 times.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 4 times, then work one last WS row (meaning a total of 9 rows have been
worked), so that the tail of yarn sits inside the future buttonhole and not at the front edge of the cardigan.
Let the sts rest and break the yarn.

Join new yarn. Begin with a WS row. Work the other side of the buttonhole as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 2 times, slip
1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Move the first of the picked up and knitted stitches from the right to the left needle, k2tog, *
slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * to end of row.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 4 times then work one last WS row (meaning a total of 9 rows have been
worked). The next row is a RS row. Do not break the yarn.

Both sides of the buttonhole have now been worked. Work across all sts as before on the next row (RS).
Work back and forth as described above until all of the picked up sts along the side of the rib have been
knitted together with the placket. This fits with there being approx. 1-1.5 cm [a bit more than ½ inch] of
placket below the last buttonhole. End on a RS row. Do not break the yarn as the next step follows from
here.

Using the 3 mm [US2½] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needle that the rib hem sts are sitting on, work across
all of the sts from the WS (meaning both the placket sts and the rib hem sts) as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1, *, work from * to * a total of 6 times,
slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, * k1, p1 *, work from * to * to the last st, k1.

Break the yarn and let the sts rest on the circular needle.

Pick up and knit sts from the RS with a 2.5 mm [US1½] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle and using the
short end of the yarn. Pick up and knit sts along the side of the rib edge, starting at the top and working
down, and picking up and knitting one stitch in each stitch. Pull the sts to the opposite end of the circular
needle, so work can begin at the top of the picked up sts, at the placket. Slip the resting placket sts onto
the opposite end of the circular needle, so that you’re holding the placket sts in your left hand and the
picked up sts in your right hand. Being with a WS row and work the placket as follows:
Row 1 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, work from * to * a total of 6 times, slip
1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, knit the last placket stitch together with the first
of the picked up sts through the back loops.

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Work Rows 1 and 2 until all of the picked up and knitted sts have been knitted together with the placket.
Work a WS row, so the next stitch is a RS row.

Using the 3 mm [US2½] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needle that the rib hem sts are sitting on, now work
double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind off technique along all bottom edge stitches. Work
as follows:
Row 1 (RS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.

Bind of sts using the Italian bind off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Sleeves
The sleeves are worked in the round in brioche stitch on a 3 mm [US2½] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle
and finished with a rib edge at the cuff (see video at www.petiteknit.com).
RS facing, pick up and knit 76 (76) 78 (80) 80 (82) 82 (82) 82 sts along one armhole edge. This is the approx.
equivalent to picking up 3 sts for every 4th “garter knot selvedge stitch” all the way around. Start and end in
the middle of the bottom of the armhole, at the underarm. Join in the round and place a marker for the
beginning of the round.

Set up the brioche stitch on the first round as follows:

* K1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Continue as follows:
Round 1: * Sl1yo, brp1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * Brk1, sl1yo *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Work Rounds 1 and 2 until the sleeve measures 36 (38) 39 (40) 40 (38) 37 (37) 35 cm [14¼ (15) 15¼ (15¾)
15¾ (15) 14½ (14½) 13¾ inches] measured from where sts were picked up and knitted – or to the desired
length. (Please note that brioche purl sts are worked on every other round because the brioche stitch is
worked in the round instead of flat), while at the same time working decreases on every 22th (24nd) 24nd
(26th) 24th (24th) 24th (24th) 22nd round (i.e. every 11th (12th) 12th (13th) 12th (12th) 12th (12th) 11th brioche
knit sts, remember that brioche knit sts as seen from the RS count each one as 2 rounds) a total of 8 (8) 8
(8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 times, by working a decrease round as described below. When all decrease rounds have
been worked there will be a total of 44 (44) 46 (48) 48 (50) 50 (50) 50 sts on the needle.

Work the decreases on a round where brioche knit sts are worked. Work as follows:
R dec, work in brioche stitch as established to the last 4 sts of the round, L dec, sl1yo. (4 sts have been
decreased).

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If necessary, continue without decreases until the described or desired length (minus 8 cm [2¼ inches]) for
the sleeve has been reached, ending on a Round 1, so that the next round is a Round 2.

Increase the number of sts before working the rib cuff (on a Round 2) as follows:
* Brk1, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo *, work from * to * a total of 11 (11) 11 (12) 12 (12) 12 (12) 12 times, work 0 (0) 2 (0)
0 (2) 2 (2) 2 sts in brioche sts as established. There are now a total of 66 (66) 68 (72) 72 (74) 74 (74) 74 sts
on the needle.

Work 7 cm [2¾ inches] in the round in 1 x 1 rib (k1, p1) on 3 mm [US2½] double-pointed needles.

Work double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind off technique (see video at
www.petiteknit.com):
Round 1: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in back, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Bind of sts using the Italian bind off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. Sew on four buttons along the left front placket across from the buttonholes on the
right front placket.

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Abbreviations
brk1 brioche knit one, see Brioche Knitting Abbreviations
brp1 brioche purl one, see Brioche Knitting Abbreviations
inc increase, see Brioche Increases
k knit
L dec left-slanting decrease, see Brioche Decreases
p purl
R dec right-slanting decrease, see Brioche Decreases
RS right side of your work
sl1yo slip one, yarn over, see Brioche Knitting Abbreviations
sts stitches
WS wrong side of your work
 Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2023
www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
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