MELANGE SWEATER

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Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Bust circumference: 106 (110) 114 (118) 126 (136) 144 (150) 160 cm [41¾ (43¼) 45 (46½) 49½ (53½) 56¾ (59) 63 inches]
Length: 59 (59) 60 (61) 62 (63) 64 (65) 66 cm [23¼ (23¼) 23½ (24) 24½ (24¾) 25¼ (25½) 26 inches] measured
mid back excl. neck edge
Gauge: 20 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in stockinette stitch on 4 mm [US6] needles
Needles: Circular needles: 4 mm [US6] / 40, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 32 and/or 40 inches] and 3.5 mm [US4] /
40 cm [16 inches]
Double-pointed needles 3.5 mm [US4] and 4 mm [US6] (unless the Magic Loop technique is used)
Materials: Suggestion 1: 500 (550) 600 (600) 650 (700) 750 (800) 850 g Tynn Peer Gynt by Sandnes Garn (50 g
= 205 m [224 yds]) or 450 (500) 550 (550) 600 (600-650) 650 (700) 750 g Sunday by Sandnes Garn
(50 g = 235 m [257 yds]) or 400-450 (450) 500 (550) 550-600 (600) 600 (650) 700 g Merino by Knitting
for Olive (50 g = 250 m [273 yds]) (with two strands of yarn held together) Note: The given yardage
amounts are the total yardage required.
Suggestion 2: 200 (200-250) 250 (250) 250-300 (300) 300 (300-350) 350 g Tvinni by Isager Yarn
(50 g = 255 m [279 yds]) held together with 200 (200-250) 250 (250) 250-300 (300) 300 (300-350)
350 g Alpaca 2 by Isager Yarn (50 g = 255 m [273 yds])
 PATTERN
The Melange Sweater is worked from the top down. First, the back yoke is worked back and forth in
stockinette stitch, while the slope of the shoulders is created using short rows. At the bottom of the back
yoke, increases are worked to shape the armholes. After this, each shoulder is worked back and forth
separately towards the front on circular needles, and then the two shoulders are joined to form the front
yoke. Back and front yokes are joined at the bottom of the armholes to form the body, which is worked in
the round on the circular needles. The sleeves are worked from stitches that are picked up and knitted along
the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round on circular needles or on double-pointed needles or
using the Magic Loop technique. At the end, a neck rib edge is worked from stitches that are picked up and
knitted around the neck opening. The neck rib edge is then folded double and knitted together. The Melange
Sweater is worked in two thin strands of wool yarn in contrasting colors held together to achieve the marled
or “mélange” look. Start by knitting a swatch to determine which size needle gives you the correct gauge.

Size guide
The Melange Sweater is designed to have approx. 15-20 cm [6-8 inches] of positive ease, meaning it is
designed to be approx. 15-20 cm [6-8 inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The
sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95
(95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½)
39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches]. The measurements for the finished sweater can be
found on the front page of the pattern. Measure yourself before beginning your project, to determine which
size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or around the
widest part of your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 110
cm [43¼ inches] which in the given example would give you 20 cm [7¾ inches] of positive ease.

About decreases and increases

Decreases and increases are worked so they either slant to the right (M1R and k2tog) or to the left (M1L and
skp). They are worked as follows (see video at www.petiteknit.com):
M1R: Make one right; insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to
front, then knit this strand.
M1L: Make one left; insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to
back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.
Skp: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

About the mélange

To achieve an even and consistent mélange (or marled look), the two strand of yarn should be lightly twisted
around each other, instead of running parallel to each other, while knitting (if the strands are parallel, the
result will look striped instead of evenly marled). Take special care during the transition from yoke to body,
when changing from working back and forth to working in the round.
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Back yoke
The back yoke is worked back and forth. Short rows are worked to shape the shoulders. Use the German
Short Row technique when turning, i.e. when the pattern says ‟turn” (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Work as follows:
Cast on 100 (104) 108 (112) 118 (122) 126 (130) 134 sts on 4 mm [US6] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches]
circular needles with your preferred method.

Break the working yarn.

Slip the first 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) 50 sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them).

Join new yarn and purl 32 (32) 32 (32) 34 (34) 34 (34) 34 sts until there are 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) 50
sts left on the needle. Turn. The next row is a RS row.
Knit until there are 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) 44 (46) 48 sts left on the needle, turn.
Purl until there are 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) 44 (46) 48 sts left on the needle, turn. The next row is a RS row.

Continue working short rows to shape the back yoke as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after the last RS turn (meaning you knit the short row stitch from the previous
RS row and then knit the next 2 sts), turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after the last WS turn (meaning you purl the short row stitch from the previous
WS row and then purl the next 2 sts), turn.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 15 (16) 17 (18) 19 (20) 21 (22) 23 times (at the last turn there are 2 sts left on
the left needle). The next row is a RS row.

The back yoke is now shaped like a trapezium, and the work measures approx. 11 (11.5) 12.5 (13) 13.5
(14.5) 15 (15.5) 16.5 cm [4¼ (4½) 5 (5) 5¼ (5¾) 6 (6¼) 6½ inches] mid back measured from the cast on edge.

Continue working back and forth in stockinette stitch (with no more short rows) across all sts until the work
measures 22.5 (22.5) 23.5 (24) 25 (24) 24 (25) 23 cm [8¾ (8¾) 9¼ (9½) 9¾ (9½) 9½ (9¾) 9 inches] measured
mid back. The last row is a WS row.

Now work increases as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3. (2 sts have been increased)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (4) 6 (6) 9 times. There are now a total of 104 (108) 112 (116) 122
(130) 138 (142) 152 sts on the needles.

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Break the working yarn and let the sts rest, while the shoulders are being worked.

Left shoulder
RS facing, pick up and knit the 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) 50 sts furthest to the left along the back yoke
cast-on edge. Pick sts up from the RS with the 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 or 32 inches] circular needles.
Pick up and knit between the sts, so the knitting looks continuous (see video at www.petiteknit.com).
Purl across 1 row, so the next row is a RS row.

Work in stockinette stitch as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 12 (12) 13 (13) 13 (13) 13 (13) 13 times (i.e. for a total of 24 (24) 26 (26) 26 (26)
26 (26) 26 rows). The next row is a RS row.

Now work increases for the neckline as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to end of row. (1 stitch has been increased)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 7 times for all sizes. There are now a total of 41 (43) 45 (47) 49 (51) 53 (55) 57
sts on the needles.
Break the working yarn and let the sts rest, while the right shoulder is being worked.

Right front
RS facing, pick up and knit the 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) 50 sts furthest to the right along the back yoke
cast-on edge. Pick sts up from the RS with the 4 mm [US6] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needles. Pick up
and knit between the sts so the knitting looks continuous.
Purl across 1 row, so the next row is a RS row.

Work in stockinette stitch as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 12 (12) 13 (13) 13 (13) 13 (13) 13 times (i.e. for a total of 24 (24) 26 (26) 26 (26)
26 (26) 26 rows). The next row is a RS row.

Now work increases for the neckline as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3. (1 stitch has been increased)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

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Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 7 times for all sizes. There are now a total of 41 (43) 45 (47) 49 (51) 53 (55) 57
sts on the needles.
Do not break the working yarn as the next step follows from here.

Front yoke
Join the right and left shoulder to form the front yoke, while casting on new sts for the neck between the
two sets of sts. Work as follows:
Knit across right shoulder sts, cast on 18 (18) 18 (18) 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 sts in extension of the right shoulder
using the backward loop method, knit across the left shoulder sts. There are now a total of 100 (104) 108
(112) 118 (122) 126 (130) 134 sts on the needles for the front.

Work back and forth in stockinette stitch until the work measures 22.5 (22.5) 23.5 (24) 25 (24) 24 (25) 23 cm
[8¾ (8¾) 9¼ (9½) 9¾ (9½) 9½ (9¾) 9 inches] measured from where sts were picked up and knitted. End on
a WS row, so the next row is a RS row.

Now work increases as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3. (2 sts have been increased)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.

Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (4) 6 (6) 9 times. There are now a total of 104 (108) 112 (116) 122
(130) 138 (142) 152 sts on the needles.
Do not break the working yarn as the next step follows from here.

Body
The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch on 4 mm [US6] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular
needles.

The body is formed by joining the front and back yoke in the round and casting on sts at the underarms.
Work as follows:
Knit across front yoke sts, cast on 2 (2) 2 (2) 4 (6) 6 (8) 8 sts in extension of the front yoke sts using the
backward loop method, knit across back yoke sts, cast on 2 (2) 2 (2) 4 (6) 6 (8) 8 sts in extension of the back
yoke sts using the backward loop method. There are now a total of 212 (220) 228 (236) 252 (272) 288 (300)
320 sts on the needle.

Join in the round and place a marker in the middle of the backward loop sts at the right underarm for the
beginning of the round.
Work straight in stockinette stitch until the sweater measures 50 (50) 51 (52) 53 (54) 55 (56) 57 cm [19¾
(19¾) 20 (20½) 20¾ (21¼) 21¾ (22) 22½ inches] measured mid back from – or desired length, try it on along
the way.

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Change to the 3.5 mm [US4] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needles and work 9 cm [3½ inches] in the round in
1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).

Work 2 rounds of double knitting before binding off using the Italian bind off method as follows (see video
at www.petiteknit.com):
Round 1: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in back, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Bind off using the Italian bind off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Sleeves
The sleeves are worked in the round in stockinette stitch on 4 mm [US6] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needles
and/or on 4 mm [US6] double-pointed needles. Begin by working short rows to form a wedge with the tips
facing towards the underarm, to slope the top of the sleeve or sleeve cap.

RS facing, pick up and knit 74 (74) 76 (78) 82 (84) 88 (92) 92 sts with the 4 mm [US6] / 40 cm [16 inches]
needles along the armhole opening. Begin and end picking up sts in the middle of the underarm sts. This is
the approx. equivalent to picking up and knitting 2 sts for every 3 rows all the way around the armhole, and
1 stitch in each of the backward loop stitches at the underarm.
Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the round.
Break the working yarn.

Before beginning the short rows, place two markers 7 (7) 7 (7) 8 (13) 17 (18) 24 sts before and 7 (7) 7 (7) 8
(13) 17 (18) 24 sts after the beginning of round marker. The markers are used as guides while working the
short rows. Work the short rows using the German Short Row technique.

Slip sts from the left to the right needle without knitting them until you meet the first guide marker. Join new
working yarn and work from the RS as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to guide marker, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after where you joined new yarn, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to 2 sts after last RS turn, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to 2 sts after last WS turn, turn.

Work Rows 1-4 once, then work Rows 3 and 4 another 1 (1) 1 (1) 1 (2) 4 (4) 7 times (on the last WS row you
turn when there are 1 (1) 1 (1) 2 (5) 5 (6) 6 sts left of the round).

Knit to the beginning of the round.

The short rows have now been completed. Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch.

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Work in the round in stockinette stitch on 4 mm [US6] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needles until the sleeve
measures 37 (37) 38 (39) 39 (39) 39 (39) 37 cm [14½ (14½) 15 (15¼) 15¼ (15¼) 15¼ (15¼) 14½ inches] from
where sts were picked up and knitted, while at the same time working decreases on every 18th (18th) 19th
(17th) 13th (12th) 11th (9th) 8th round a total of 5 (5) 5 (6) 8 (9) 10 (12) 12 times by working a decrease round
as follows: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts of the round, skp, k1.

There are now a total of 64 (64) 66 (66) 66 (66) 68 (68) 68 sts on the needles. Change to double-pointed
needles or Magic Loop technique when needed.

Change to 3.5 mm [US4] double-pointed needles and work 12 cm [4¾ inches] in the round in 1 x 1 rib (k1,
p1).

Work double knitting and bind off using the Italian bind off technique the same way as on the hem of the
body.
Work the second sleeve the same way as the first.

Neck edge
The neck edge is worked in the round in rib on 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needles.
RS facing, pick up and knit 110 (110) 112 (114) 116 (116) 116 (116) 116 sts along the neck opening using
the 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needles. This is the approx. equivalent to picking up and
knitting 1 stitch in every stitch along the back of the neck, the front of the neck and along the slanted sides,
and 2 sts for every 3 rows along the straight sides of the neck. Begin and end picking up sts in the middle
of the back of the neck.

Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the round. Work as follows:
Rounds 1-12: Work in 1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).
Rounds 13-15: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front *, repeat from * to * to end of
round. This will generate a double-knit folding edge.
Rounds 16-25: Work in 1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).

Fold the rib edge double towards the inside of the sweater and knit it together by knitting every other stitch
of the next round together with a stitch from the round where stitches were picked up and knitted, while at
the same time binding off all sts. Work as follows (see video at www.petiteknit.com):
* Pick up a stitch from the round where stitches were picked up and knitted and place it on the left needle.
Knit the picked up stitch together with the first stitch on the left needle. Pass the second stitch on the right
needle over the stitch that was just knitted (i.e. bind off the stitch). Knit 1 stitch. Pass the second stitch on
the right needle over the stitch that was just knitted (i.e. bind off the stitch). *

Repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

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Take that the neck edge doesn’t become twisted – make sure to check along the way that each stitch is
knitted together with the stitch directly below it at the cast-on edge when picking it up.

Finishing
Weave in all ends.

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Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog decrease, knit two stitches together (slants to the right)
M1L make one left; increase, insert the left needle under the strand between the stitches from front to
back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted)
M1R make one right; increase, insert the left needle under the strand between the stitches from back to
front, then knit this strand
p purl
RS right side of your work
skp decrease, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (slants to the left)
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work
 Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2023
www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
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